The Thoroughbred Swing Coat - Sleeves and Fronts

I decided to try something I hadn’t tried before, for the sleeves and fronts with this sweater: I knit the sleeves and fronts two-at-a-time (TAAT) on a long circular needle. The sleeves were knit on the same cable, bottom to top. The fronts were knit two-at-a-time to the point that the raglan decreases started. I then moved one of the front pieces to a second circular needle and finished each front piece on their own. I couldn't wrap my head around decreasing the sleeve stitches while knitting the TAAT. Since the majority of the fronts were already finished, the knitting of the separate pieces went really fast.

Back, Sleeves, Fronts

I thought the TAAT method would work for me because I would finish both pieces at the same time, and not be left with one front or one sleeve with one of each still to go. [No second sock syndrome. You can look it up, it's a real thing in knitting]. It’s a bit daunting for me to see half of the project completed and know I still another sleeve or front to knit. I had to make sure that I completed both pieces on the circulars when I was knitting. I worked across both pieces across the circulars so that I never put down the needles with only one of the two pieces knit.  It was difficult to return to the sweater with one side knitted, and the other one waiting to be knit, as I discovered. I ended up working on one side two times in a row while leaving the other side dangling waiting to be knit.

Start of Two-at-a-Time Fronts

Fronts completed to beginning of decreases.

Because I was having problems remembering and tracking where I was in the pattern I decided to create little reminders that I attached to the front and back of each piece to remind me of the stitch pattern for that side. I used my word processing program to make the slips of pattern, cut out the pattern snippets, and laminated each of them. I then punched a hole in the corner of the laminated piece and used a locking stitch marker to attach it to the pieces. It saved my behind more than a couple of times – especially when I had to put the sweater down for an extended period of time. It was easy to come back and see what row I had completed. 

Front with my pattern info attached.

Those little laminated tags are my new favorite thing about knitting. I will always have my pattern with me, and I know what I am supposed to be working on, even after setting down my projects for long lengths of time. It's a little goofy. But it sure works.

Happy knitting!

The Bonham Fascinator

We have a completed project to show off. . . the Bonham Fascinator from the 1940s Fascinators Mantilla Head Coverings Scarf - 4 Knit and Crochet patterns.

This is a knit lace project. When Alison sent me the pattern, I immediately fell in love with it and had to make it.  I saw the black sparkly yarn and knew immediately that I was going to use it for the fascinator. I wasn't really thinking about how well the yarn would photograph. Turns out, black is really difficult to take a great picture of. That's why we have included a picture of the lace made in a dusty rose yarn.

Finished size: 55 x 22 inches (not including fringe).
I made slightly smaller than pattern called for.

Materials used:Vanna's Glamour Yarn
     - Yarn weight: Category 2 - Fine
     - Content: 96% polyester, 4% metallic
Circular knitting needles, size 10 1/2

The bobble sample:

Sample was knit with two different needle sizes. 

The top section was knit on size 8 needles. The lace is tighter and the bobbles are smaller. 

The bottom section was knit on size 10 1/2 needles. The bobbles are bigger and the lace is more open. The sample was not blocked.

Close-up of the bobbles.

 Blocking the fascinator:

On the blocking mats. It is neat to see the yarn relax and the lace pattern come to life.

I steam blocked the poly/metallic yarn. I started by inserting the blocking wires into the edges of the fascinator. Once I had the blocking wires placed how I wanted them, I pinned the wires to the mat (pins went in front of the wires to keep them from moving back and forth on the mat). Once everything was pinned down, I covered the edging with towels to keep them from flattening out with the steam. I made an edging sample to see if I liked the blocked or unblocked look. The blocked edging looked flat and lifeless to me.

Steam blocking the fascinator.
The iron does not touch the yarn. It is held above the yarn.

I held the iron several inches above the fascinator for several seconds and steamed it like crazy. This was the second time I had steam blocked a synthetic fiber, and I really like this method. It makes the shawl lay flat, and really makes the lace pattern open up. All in a relatively quick manner. I don't really have the space to wet block items, and even if I did our cats would have a heyday picking at the project.

Once I finished steaming the fascinator, I let it lay on the mat until it was completely dry. 

I purchased anti-fatigue mats from a tool company for blocking my projects. I join them together to make a blocking area that fits my project.

The pattern can be found in our Etsy store.