Hairpin Lace Jabot is Finished!

I finished the Hairpin Lace Jabot. And it's really cute. Unfortunately, I don't yet have a pic of a real person wearing the jabot, so until I can find an outfit to wear with the jabot - and then convince my 10 year old to take a few pics of me, the jabot on a stick will have to suffice.

The yarn I used was larger than that called for in the pattern, as was the crochet hook. I think it worked out okay though. Modern neck sizes seem larger than those of the 1930s (like most of our other measurements). Next time, I am going to use a smaller yarn and hook.

A close-up of the hairpin stitches.

Overall, I liked working with hairpin lace. It's a nice project to have going when you don't really have a lot of time or energy to pay attention to your project. I could make the loops on auto-pilot once I got the hang of it. 

Next time I would use crochet cotton to group the stitches in packs of 10, 20 or 25 stitches. I found a pic of someone using that method online, and it looked so much easier to keep track of the stitches. Periodically it seemed like I would place a marker incorrectly. If all of the stitches are tied together, there is less chance of losing track of them.

The pattern for the Hairpin Lace Jabot can be found in this ebook.

Happy hairpinning!

Hairpin Lace Jabot - An Update

I am almost finished with the Jabot Collar. In the meantime, I am posting an update.

This project has been a learning experience. I've discovered that hairpin lace is easy and pretty relaxing, and that I really like the process of joining the strips. I've also discovered that tiny yarn is probably the most difficult thing to use when learning a new technique. Not just tiny yarn, but hairy tiny yarn means some extra work when ripping out a mistake.

Making the Strips.

• I used a stitch marker to hold a scrap of paper with the width of each strip, along with the number of stitches. This meant I didn't have to spend any time wondering if I was using the correct strips, and I didn't have to count the loops each time. 
• When completing each strip cut the thread or yarn, and pull it through the working loop to finish off the strip (just like crochet).
• I used a US size B hook to make the strips and a US size D to join the strips.

All of the strips have been made and are stored rolled up.

Guidelines.

• I knew they would be important, but I didn't realize how helpful they would be. On one of the 240 loop strips, I wasn't paying close attention and let the strip get twisted and wonky after I had moved it off the loom pegs. The picture shows how useful it was to have the guidelines keeping the loops straight when the strip was twisting.

Top strip was twisted and messed up.
The guidelines made it easy to untangle.

Joining the Strips.

• I found that using a hook larger helped me keep the loops under control when joining the strips together. The loops had a tendency to slip off the hook that was used to make the strips.
• When joining the strips to make the jabot part of the pattern, the starting sides for the joins should be alternated so that the  finished piece doesn't slant off to one side.
• The pattern calls for holding the two strips between your fingers of your non-dominant hand when working the joins. Most modern patterns call for laying the strips flat on the table. I used a combination of the two methods to join the strips. It was easier for me to work an inch at a time while holding one strip between my thumb and forefinger and the second strip between my forefinger and 2nd finger, then lay the strips flat to check for non-joined loops.
• Make sure you look over your work every few inches or so when joining. I would find non-joined stitches every so often. That meant I had to undo the joined stitches back to the non-joins and work forward again. Once I got better at checking my work, it wasn't a bad process.

The collar portion of the jabot.

Single crochet edging - top of strip.

The pattern booklet can be found here.

Happy hairpinning!

Hairpin Lace Jabot (An Ornamental Frill for us Modern Times People)

I decided to try my hand at Hairpin Lace. I wanted a small project to learn on, if it turned out that learning hairpin lace was harder than it looked. Turns out, hairpin lace is easy, easy, easy. Making the lace strips is repetitive and doesn't require a whole lot of attention. The real work begins when the strips are sewn together to create the garment or whatever project is being created.

The Jabot Collar No. 953 was the small project that was calling out to me. It wanted to be made.

What I discovered in my first attempts with hairpin lace:

Casting On 

There are a few different methods. Try them out, find out what works for you. I tried two methods for casting on.

• For the first method I started by making a slip knot and placing it on the left loom pin. I found the tutorial for this method Stitch Diva website. She has some terrific tutorials for making hairpin lace. I think this was a great way to start. I only had to worry about my hand movements. The slip knot was anchored to the loom pin so it wasn't going anywhere. As I went on, I found it to be a little more difficult to use when I added in the guide lines.

• The second cast on method I tried was from SheruKnittingcom on Youtube. She shows how to cast on using a slip knot that is worked into the loops without having to be anchored to the loom pin. I'm glad I waited to try this method. I was more comfortable with the hand movements and working around the guide lines when I started using this cast-on method.

Guidelines

Use guide lines. It looks like the guide lines help keep all of the loops going in the same direction. This will make life easier when stitching the strips together.

I tried several different types of yarn and thread to figure out what worked best for me. Crochet cotton was the clear winner. It had body so it wasn't flopping around when I turned the loom, and, it was small enough not to be in the way when I was making the lace.

Guideline for a short
hairpin lace segment.

Guideline secured to the bottom
of the loom

• 
  

I tied the guidelines to the top of the loom on the outside of the loom pins to keep the from moving around too much. I pulled the crochet cotton tight at the bottom of the loom, then wrapped it around the loom base. The wrapped cotton was secured by a rubber band and kept everything from moving around while I worked the lace. Once you get going with the lace, and move it down the loom, the lace keeps the guide lines from coming loose.

Close up of guideline anchored at bottom of loom.
I used a stitch marker to keep the guideline
to the left side of the loom.

The extra thread for the guide lines should be at the bottom to allow the work to drop below the loom if you have too many stitches for the loom to hold. You can remove the bottom pin holder and release the stitches to hang down from the loom to free up space in the working area of the loom.

Yarns

Yarn type really matters. This project is being made using a slubby, super-thin boucle type yarn. It is not ideal for learning how to work hairpin lace. The hairy texture of the yarn would periodically get stuck on the crochet hook, making it nearly impossible to remove the loops from the crochet hook. Did I mention that the crochet hook is microscopic? Maybe not truly microscopic, but it's a steel hook size 3. I needed really bright light to help me navigate my way around the loops and hook.

Determining working side of loom

Figuring out where you are when coming back to the loom. This might be obvious to you, but it took my 2 1/2 strips to figure it out. When you pick up the loom after a time away from it, it can be difficult to figure out where you are in the loop making process.

• If the yarn has been connected to the loop through the back, you are ready to flip the loom and start a new stitch.

• If the yarn is coming around the right loom leg, but is not attached to the loop in the middle, the stitch needs to be made on that side.

It sure sounds basic and easy to figure out, but there is new stuff to be learned as you are creating the first strips that it's easy to miss that little nugget.

More info

Look online for more tips and videos. There is so much information available online for hairpin lace. It is truly amazing. I didn't realize so many people did hairpin lace. Maybe it isn't a lost art.

The Hairpin Lace Creations Booklet can be found here.

Happy Crocheting! Happy Hairpinning!

The Garden Party Hat - Adventures in Crochet

Check out our new hat...

I started this hat several years ago, when we first started our store. The hat was so pretty and lacy, I just wanted to make it. I was still fairly new to crochet at that point. I had taken a class (which had resulted in me pinching a nerve in my neck from sitting stock still for long periods of time). I was a tense crocheter.  Not exactly what I was hoping for when I re-learned crochet.

I decided that size 3 crochet cotton was going to be my challenge for the Garden Party Hat project. It wasn't exactly smooth sailing. I was used to working with worsted weight yarn so it seemed like I was never getting anywhere when I spent time crocheting the hat. I set the hat down and it sat in its project bag for 2+ years.

When I found the hat, I had completed most of the single crochets of the crown. The experience I had under my belt along with a change in my mindset made this a completely different project to work on.   Not everything has to be made at lightening quick speed, and progress happens whether its big or small amounts. I really like size 3 crochet cotton these days. 

The pattern calls for millinery wire. We found ours on Etsy. I did a little research on the wire size that we needed and decided to go with size 19 wire. I didn't want that hat brim collapsing from the weight while it is being worn. There are two rows of millinery wire in the brim of the hat. The first bit of wire is about 1.5 inches from where the brim meets the crown. The second bit of wire is 2 rows from the edge.

 There is a separate lace chain that is made and then added at the base of the crown. I could not figure out how to make the lace chain so it came out looking even and nice. Finally, I had to contact my friend who figured out the pattern and made a really nice looking lace chain. Thanks Debbie! If you have any questions regarding the chain, let us know and I will check with Debbie on how she made it. Really, you could find any sort of lacy bit and make it to fit around the hat.

The 1930s Garden Party or Wedding Hat pattern is available in our Etsy store.

Happy Crocheting!

"Hairpin Lace Creations" Patterns For Sale

Alison found a few great books from the 1930s and 1940s for hairpin lace. I have a hairpin lace tool/loom, so it looks like work is piling up for me.... The original name of our store was "My Sister's Sweatshop" because Alison was always (ALWAYS) finding patterns that she wanted me to make - either for her or just because.

This is one of the cool new books...

Vintage hairpin pattern booklet taken from a 1936 booklet, called "Hair Pin Lace Creations Made in a Jiffy with Bear Brand and Bucilla Yarns, Volume 89" 11 Designs are in the book.

Includes Ladies Dresses, Blouses, Cuffs and Collars, Purse, and, Girl's Dresses.

Hairpin Lace work is an old art revived but there is a new twist to it now for fashion tells us to use it for making smart wearing apparel and accessories--grandmother used it for making edges and insertion.

Materials required: 

Yarns - Glossilla Bouclette, Bear Brand or Bucilla French Zephyr, Glossilla Petite Bouclette, Bear Brand or Bucilla Twinkle Crepe, Adjustable Hairpin Lace Loom Bone or Bucilla crochet hook

  

To see the individual patterns, just click on the links: 

• Girl's Dress
• Girl's Cape Collar Dress 
• Frill Blouse
• Back Button Blouse 
• Purse  
• Cuffs and Collar  
• Shirtwaist Blouse
• Cape or Bed Jacket  
• Puff Sleeve Dress  
• Cover Dress

I guess this means I have to try one of these patterns, unless I can sweet talk one of my friends into learning a new craft. 

Happy hairpinning!

Crocheted Party Dress: The Finale

It's done! I can't believe I completed the Crocheted Party Dress so quickly. I don't think I have ever (and I mean ever) finished a project in a month and a half.

And the best part is - the dress looks really cute. My behind is too big to fit in the dress, so we used a dress form to showcase our little gem.

I have to say, this was a great pattern:

• It was easy to follow.
• Easy to memorize the lace shell patterns.
• The shell patterns changed often enough to keep me from getting bored.
• There were no side seams. I can't stress how awesome this was for me.
• The finishing around the neckline and the sleeves was super easy. 

Finished measurements (all taken laying flat):

• Width at waist: 15.5 inches
• Width at bottom of armhole/bust:  18.5 inches
• Width at hem:  23 inches
• Sleeve length:  25 inches
• Length from neckline to hem:  33 inches

Hop on over to our Etsy store to find the pattern. It contains three different sizes allowing for customization of the pattern.

Partying On - Crochet Party Dress Update

Sleeves are complete! The skirt is coming along nicely. The pattern is easy. I find that I cannot stop in the middle of a row, otherwise I get turned around and head back in the direction I just crocheted - which makes the skirt a little lopsided - not a good look.

I was surprised at the waistline that showed up. I hadn't expected there to be much of a defined waistline with this pattern. But the waist pulls in and should look great when worn.

The top photo shows the dress with 67 rows completed on it. I have used all of the taupe yarn (all 315 yards of it) on the sleeves and the skirt.

A closeup of the waistline and top of the skirt. 

There are 9 more rows to complete the skirt. I'm really looking forward to finishing the dress. This has been a great project. It has gone fast - I haven't completed a project this fast EVER; it doesn't have side seams - I'm not great at seaming yet; and the pattern stitches change just enough that it is not a pain to memorize, but they hold my interest. 

I can't wait to have a finished project to show.

Happy Crocheting!

Crocheted Party Dress - Motivation

When Alison first sent me pattern for the Crocheted Party Dress, I knew I had to make it. But it was a big project - an entire dress - and I hadn't ever started, let alone completed, a big garment before. Still, I knew at some point I would make this dress. The best part is that is's a crochet pattern with worsted weight/light worsted weight yarn, so it would make up relatively fast.

25 rows completed. Once the bodice and skirt are completed the sleeves are added.

The dress is working up pretty quickly, even if I'm a slow crocheter. The lace pattern is easily memorized. I like that a lot!

I purchased a 1 pound mill end of off white Caron Simply Soft online for next to nothing. I knew at the time that I don't particularly like working with the yarn, but it looks so pretty made up that I had to buy it. That mill end turned out to be the perfect yarn in my stash to make dress.

Out shopping one afternoon, we were talking about the dress and how cool it would look if it were an ombre instead of a solid color dress. We picked up a skein of coral and taupe yarns. I am hopeful that I can get the dress to turn out like I envision it in my head.

I am using the postings of my progress as motivation. I want to be able to show my progress on the dress each time I post an update. I'm not always so good at completing projects, so I have to find motivation where I can.

The original dress.

Happy crocheting!

The Bonham Fascinator

We have a completed project to show off. . . the Bonham Fascinator from the 1940s Fascinators Mantilla Head Coverings Scarf - 4 Knit and Crochet patterns.

This is a knit lace project. When Alison sent me the pattern, I immediately fell in love with it and had to make it.  I saw the black sparkly yarn and knew immediately that I was going to use it for the fascinator. I wasn't really thinking about how well the yarn would photograph. Turns out, black is really difficult to take a great picture of. That's why we have included a picture of the lace made in a dusty rose yarn.

Finished size: 55 x 22 inches (not including fringe).
I made slightly smaller than pattern called for.

Materials used:Vanna's Glamour Yarn
     - Yarn weight: Category 2 - Fine
     - Content: 96% polyester, 4% metallic
Circular knitting needles, size 10 1/2

The bobble sample:

Sample was knit with two different needle sizes. 

The top section was knit on size 8 needles. The lace is tighter and the bobbles are smaller. 

The bottom section was knit on size 10 1/2 needles. The bobbles are bigger and the lace is more open. The sample was not blocked.

Close-up of the bobbles.

 Blocking the fascinator:

On the blocking mats. It is neat to see the yarn relax and the lace pattern come to life.

I steam blocked the poly/metallic yarn. I started by inserting the blocking wires into the edges of the fascinator. Once I had the blocking wires placed how I wanted them, I pinned the wires to the mat (pins went in front of the wires to keep them from moving back and forth on the mat). Once everything was pinned down, I covered the edging with towels to keep them from flattening out with the steam. I made an edging sample to see if I liked the blocked or unblocked look. The blocked edging looked flat and lifeless to me.

Steam blocking the fascinator.
The iron does not touch the yarn. It is held above the yarn.

I held the iron several inches above the fascinator for several seconds and steamed it like crazy. This was the second time I had steam blocked a synthetic fiber, and I really like this method. It makes the shawl lay flat, and really makes the lace pattern open up. All in a relatively quick manner. I don't really have the space to wet block items, and even if I did our cats would have a heyday picking at the project.

Once I finished steaming the fascinator, I let it lay on the mat until it was completely dry. 

I purchased anti-fatigue mats from a tool company for blocking my projects. I join them together to make a blocking area that fits my project.

The pattern can be found in our Etsy store.

Fascinated

We have just posted some new patterns at our Etsy store store. We have added a group of four fascinators from the 1940's that are knit or crocheted. When Alison showed me the patterns, I almost fell over with excitement - and an intense desire to make them. I thought they were headscarves, but the pattern calls them fascinators.

Bonham Fascinator