The Thoroughbred Swing Coat - Sleeves and Fronts

I decided to try something I hadn’t tried before, for the sleeves and fronts with this sweater: I knit the sleeves and fronts two-at-a-time (TAAT) on a long circular needle. The sleeves were knit on the same cable, bottom to top. The fronts were knit two-at-a-time to the point that the raglan decreases started. I then moved one of the front pieces to a second circular needle and finished each front piece on their own. I couldn't wrap my head around decreasing the sleeve stitches while knitting the TAAT. Since the majority of the fronts were already finished, the knitting of the separate pieces went really fast.

Back, Sleeves, Fronts

I thought the TAAT method would work for me because I would finish both pieces at the same time, and not be left with one front or one sleeve with one of each still to go. [No second sock syndrome. You can look it up, it's a real thing in knitting]. It’s a bit daunting for me to see half of the project completed and know I still another sleeve or front to knit. I had to make sure that I completed both pieces on the circulars when I was knitting. I worked across both pieces across the circulars so that I never put down the needles with only one of the two pieces knit.  It was difficult to return to the sweater with one side knitted, and the other one waiting to be knit, as I discovered. I ended up working on one side two times in a row while leaving the other side dangling waiting to be knit.

Start of Two-at-a-Time Fronts

Fronts completed to beginning of decreases.

Because I was having problems remembering and tracking where I was in the pattern I decided to create little reminders that I attached to the front and back of each piece to remind me of the stitch pattern for that side. I used my word processing program to make the slips of pattern, cut out the pattern snippets, and laminated each of them. I then punched a hole in the corner of the laminated piece and used a locking stitch marker to attach it to the pieces. It saved my behind more than a couple of times – especially when I had to put the sweater down for an extended period of time. It was easy to come back and see what row I had completed. 

Front with my pattern info attached.

Those little laminated tags are my new favorite thing about knitting. I will always have my pattern with me, and I know what I am supposed to be working on, even after setting down my projects for long lengths of time. It's a little goofy. But it sure works.

Happy knitting!

Hairpin Lace Jabot - An Update

I am almost finished with the Jabot Collar. In the meantime, I am posting an update.

This project has been a learning experience. I've discovered that hairpin lace is easy and pretty relaxing, and that I really like the process of joining the strips. I've also discovered that tiny yarn is probably the most difficult thing to use when learning a new technique. Not just tiny yarn, but hairy tiny yarn means some extra work when ripping out a mistake.

Making the Strips.

• I used a stitch marker to hold a scrap of paper with the width of each strip, along with the number of stitches. This meant I didn't have to spend any time wondering if I was using the correct strips, and I didn't have to count the loops each time. 
• When completing each strip cut the thread or yarn, and pull it through the working loop to finish off the strip (just like crochet).
• I used a US size B hook to make the strips and a US size D to join the strips.

All of the strips have been made and are stored rolled up.

Guidelines.

• I knew they would be important, but I didn't realize how helpful they would be. On one of the 240 loop strips, I wasn't paying close attention and let the strip get twisted and wonky after I had moved it off the loom pegs. The picture shows how useful it was to have the guidelines keeping the loops straight when the strip was twisting.

Top strip was twisted and messed up.
The guidelines made it easy to untangle.

Joining the Strips.

• I found that using a hook larger helped me keep the loops under control when joining the strips together. The loops had a tendency to slip off the hook that was used to make the strips.
• When joining the strips to make the jabot part of the pattern, the starting sides for the joins should be alternated so that the  finished piece doesn't slant off to one side.
• The pattern calls for holding the two strips between your fingers of your non-dominant hand when working the joins. Most modern patterns call for laying the strips flat on the table. I used a combination of the two methods to join the strips. It was easier for me to work an inch at a time while holding one strip between my thumb and forefinger and the second strip between my forefinger and 2nd finger, then lay the strips flat to check for non-joined loops.
• Make sure you look over your work every few inches or so when joining. I would find non-joined stitches every so often. That meant I had to undo the joined stitches back to the non-joins and work forward again. Once I got better at checking my work, it wasn't a bad process.

The collar portion of the jabot.

Single crochet edging - top of strip.

The pattern booklet can be found here.

Happy hairpinning!