Hairpin Lace Jabot is Finished!

I finished the Hairpin Lace Jabot. And it's really cute. Unfortunately, I don't yet have a pic of a real person wearing the jabot, so until I can find an outfit to wear with the jabot - and then convince my 10 year old to take a few pics of me, the jabot on a stick will have to suffice.

The yarn I used was larger than that called for in the pattern, as was the crochet hook. I think it worked out okay though. Modern neck sizes seem larger than those of the 1930s (like most of our other measurements). Next time, I am going to use a smaller yarn and hook.

A close-up of the hairpin stitches.

Overall, I liked working with hairpin lace. It's a nice project to have going when you don't really have a lot of time or energy to pay attention to your project. I could make the loops on auto-pilot once I got the hang of it. 

Next time I would use crochet cotton to group the stitches in packs of 10, 20 or 25 stitches. I found a pic of someone using that method online, and it looked so much easier to keep track of the stitches. Periodically it seemed like I would place a marker incorrectly. If all of the stitches are tied together, there is less chance of losing track of them.

The pattern for the Hairpin Lace Jabot can be found in this ebook.

Happy hairpinning!

Spinning Wheel / Tumbling Blocks / Illusion Afghan - a Finished Afghan

We have a picture of a finished afghan made from the Spinning Wheel / Tumbling Blocks / Illusion afghan pattern.

Nicole Bush sent us pics of her son's new afghan:

From Nicole:

It took me just under 3 months to make (between work and meetings). I had to read the pattern a couple of times to get the diamond just right (my first two diamonds were wonky!) and in the end I drew a hand diagram of the stitches to make sure it was even, then it was smooth sailing....

My tips:

• Read the pattern carefully as it can be tricky,
• If you follow diagrams better, sketch the diamond while you read it, and
• Be patient.

The pattern charted out.

(Due to camera and lighting weirdness, the colors are different on some of the pics.)

Motifs joined.

My son picked the colors, the walls of his room are orange and chocolate brown, and the inside of his closet and furniture is the beige. His floor is chocolate brown wood and the same color chocolate shag carpet beside his bed. The search was on for the right colors. I used almost 2 of the large balls for each color and it fits a twin size bed.

I did NOT block the blanket or any of the motifs.

Row complete.

Our thanks to Nicole for sending us her pics. Her afghan is a work of art. 

It can sometimes be difficult to picture what a vintage pattern will look like when made with modern yarn. Generally, the vintage patterns uses teeny tiny yarns because that was what was available. We have heavier yarns that work up faster. The difference in color choices also makes a difference in how the patterns look. The colors of Nicole's afghan give a retro look to a vintage pattern. 

We love seeing what people are making with our patterns. So send us your pics of completed projects.

Happy crocheting!

Hairpin Lace Jabot - An Update

I am almost finished with the Jabot Collar. In the meantime, I am posting an update.

This project has been a learning experience. I've discovered that hairpin lace is easy and pretty relaxing, and that I really like the process of joining the strips. I've also discovered that tiny yarn is probably the most difficult thing to use when learning a new technique. Not just tiny yarn, but hairy tiny yarn means some extra work when ripping out a mistake.

Making the Strips.

• I used a stitch marker to hold a scrap of paper with the width of each strip, along with the number of stitches. This meant I didn't have to spend any time wondering if I was using the correct strips, and I didn't have to count the loops each time. 
• When completing each strip cut the thread or yarn, and pull it through the working loop to finish off the strip (just like crochet).
• I used a US size B hook to make the strips and a US size D to join the strips.

All of the strips have been made and are stored rolled up.

Guidelines.

• I knew they would be important, but I didn't realize how helpful they would be. On one of the 240 loop strips, I wasn't paying close attention and let the strip get twisted and wonky after I had moved it off the loom pegs. The picture shows how useful it was to have the guidelines keeping the loops straight when the strip was twisting.

Top strip was twisted and messed up.
The guidelines made it easy to untangle.

Joining the Strips.

• I found that using a hook larger helped me keep the loops under control when joining the strips together. The loops had a tendency to slip off the hook that was used to make the strips.
• When joining the strips to make the jabot part of the pattern, the starting sides for the joins should be alternated so that the  finished piece doesn't slant off to one side.
• The pattern calls for holding the two strips between your fingers of your non-dominant hand when working the joins. Most modern patterns call for laying the strips flat on the table. I used a combination of the two methods to join the strips. It was easier for me to work an inch at a time while holding one strip between my thumb and forefinger and the second strip between my forefinger and 2nd finger, then lay the strips flat to check for non-joined loops.
• Make sure you look over your work every few inches or so when joining. I would find non-joined stitches every so often. That meant I had to undo the joined stitches back to the non-joins and work forward again. Once I got better at checking my work, it wasn't a bad process.

The collar portion of the jabot.

Single crochet edging - top of strip.

The pattern booklet can be found here.

Happy hairpinning!

Hairpin Lace Jabot (An Ornamental Frill for us Modern Times People)

I decided to try my hand at Hairpin Lace. I wanted a small project to learn on, if it turned out that learning hairpin lace was harder than it looked. Turns out, hairpin lace is easy, easy, easy. Making the lace strips is repetitive and doesn't require a whole lot of attention. The real work begins when the strips are sewn together to create the garment or whatever project is being created.

The Jabot Collar No. 953 was the small project that was calling out to me. It wanted to be made.

What I discovered in my first attempts with hairpin lace:

Casting On 

There are a few different methods. Try them out, find out what works for you. I tried two methods for casting on.

• For the first method I started by making a slip knot and placing it on the left loom pin. I found the tutorial for this method Stitch Diva website. She has some terrific tutorials for making hairpin lace. I think this was a great way to start. I only had to worry about my hand movements. The slip knot was anchored to the loom pin so it wasn't going anywhere. As I went on, I found it to be a little more difficult to use when I added in the guide lines.

• The second cast on method I tried was from SheruKnittingcom on Youtube. She shows how to cast on using a slip knot that is worked into the loops without having to be anchored to the loom pin. I'm glad I waited to try this method. I was more comfortable with the hand movements and working around the guide lines when I started using this cast-on method.

Guidelines

Use guide lines. It looks like the guide lines help keep all of the loops going in the same direction. This will make life easier when stitching the strips together.

I tried several different types of yarn and thread to figure out what worked best for me. Crochet cotton was the clear winner. It had body so it wasn't flopping around when I turned the loom, and, it was small enough not to be in the way when I was making the lace.

Guideline for a short
hairpin lace segment.

Guideline secured to the bottom
of the loom

• 
  

I tied the guidelines to the top of the loom on the outside of the loom pins to keep the from moving around too much. I pulled the crochet cotton tight at the bottom of the loom, then wrapped it around the loom base. The wrapped cotton was secured by a rubber band and kept everything from moving around while I worked the lace. Once you get going with the lace, and move it down the loom, the lace keeps the guide lines from coming loose.

Close up of guideline anchored at bottom of loom.
I used a stitch marker to keep the guideline
to the left side of the loom.

The extra thread for the guide lines should be at the bottom to allow the work to drop below the loom if you have too many stitches for the loom to hold. You can remove the bottom pin holder and release the stitches to hang down from the loom to free up space in the working area of the loom.

Yarns

Yarn type really matters. This project is being made using a slubby, super-thin boucle type yarn. It is not ideal for learning how to work hairpin lace. The hairy texture of the yarn would periodically get stuck on the crochet hook, making it nearly impossible to remove the loops from the crochet hook. Did I mention that the crochet hook is microscopic? Maybe not truly microscopic, but it's a steel hook size 3. I needed really bright light to help me navigate my way around the loops and hook.

Determining working side of loom

Figuring out where you are when coming back to the loom. This might be obvious to you, but it took my 2 1/2 strips to figure it out. When you pick up the loom after a time away from it, it can be difficult to figure out where you are in the loop making process.

• If the yarn has been connected to the loop through the back, you are ready to flip the loom and start a new stitch.

• If the yarn is coming around the right loom leg, but is not attached to the loop in the middle, the stitch needs to be made on that side.

It sure sounds basic and easy to figure out, but there is new stuff to be learned as you are creating the first strips that it's easy to miss that little nugget.

More info

Look online for more tips and videos. There is so much information available online for hairpin lace. It is truly amazing. I didn't realize so many people did hairpin lace. Maybe it isn't a lost art.

The Hairpin Lace Creations Booklet can be found here.

Happy Crocheting! Happy Hairpinning!

The Garden Party Hat - Adventures in Crochet

Check out our new hat...

I started this hat several years ago, when we first started our store. The hat was so pretty and lacy, I just wanted to make it. I was still fairly new to crochet at that point. I had taken a class (which had resulted in me pinching a nerve in my neck from sitting stock still for long periods of time). I was a tense crocheter.  Not exactly what I was hoping for when I re-learned crochet.

I decided that size 3 crochet cotton was going to be my challenge for the Garden Party Hat project. It wasn't exactly smooth sailing. I was used to working with worsted weight yarn so it seemed like I was never getting anywhere when I spent time crocheting the hat. I set the hat down and it sat in its project bag for 2+ years.

When I found the hat, I had completed most of the single crochets of the crown. The experience I had under my belt along with a change in my mindset made this a completely different project to work on.   Not everything has to be made at lightening quick speed, and progress happens whether its big or small amounts. I really like size 3 crochet cotton these days. 

The pattern calls for millinery wire. We found ours on Etsy. I did a little research on the wire size that we needed and decided to go with size 19 wire. I didn't want that hat brim collapsing from the weight while it is being worn. There are two rows of millinery wire in the brim of the hat. The first bit of wire is about 1.5 inches from where the brim meets the crown. The second bit of wire is 2 rows from the edge.

 There is a separate lace chain that is made and then added at the base of the crown. I could not figure out how to make the lace chain so it came out looking even and nice. Finally, I had to contact my friend who figured out the pattern and made a really nice looking lace chain. Thanks Debbie! If you have any questions regarding the chain, let us know and I will check with Debbie on how she made it. Really, you could find any sort of lacy bit and make it to fit around the hat.

The 1930s Garden Party or Wedding Hat pattern is available in our Etsy store.

Happy Crocheting!

"Hairpin Lace Creations" Patterns For Sale

Alison found a few great books from the 1930s and 1940s for hairpin lace. I have a hairpin lace tool/loom, so it looks like work is piling up for me.... The original name of our store was "My Sister's Sweatshop" because Alison was always (ALWAYS) finding patterns that she wanted me to make - either for her or just because.

This is one of the cool new books...

Vintage hairpin pattern booklet taken from a 1936 booklet, called "Hair Pin Lace Creations Made in a Jiffy with Bear Brand and Bucilla Yarns, Volume 89" 11 Designs are in the book.

Includes Ladies Dresses, Blouses, Cuffs and Collars, Purse, and, Girl's Dresses.

Hairpin Lace work is an old art revived but there is a new twist to it now for fashion tells us to use it for making smart wearing apparel and accessories--grandmother used it for making edges and insertion.

Materials required: 

Yarns - Glossilla Bouclette, Bear Brand or Bucilla French Zephyr, Glossilla Petite Bouclette, Bear Brand or Bucilla Twinkle Crepe, Adjustable Hairpin Lace Loom Bone or Bucilla crochet hook

  

To see the individual patterns, just click on the links: 

• Girl's Dress
• Girl's Cape Collar Dress 
• Frill Blouse
• Back Button Blouse 
• Purse  
• Cuffs and Collar  
• Shirtwaist Blouse
• Cape or Bed Jacket  
• Puff Sleeve Dress  
• Cover Dress

I guess this means I have to try one of these patterns, unless I can sweet talk one of my friends into learning a new craft. 

Happy hairpinning!

Free Pattern Download - 2 Purses from the 1930s (crochet)

It's time to start making a purse, or two. We have two great crochet purse patterns from the 1930's. Both have puffy stitches that will make a stylish, one-of-a-kind purse. Made out of a shimmer yarn, they would be terrific for an evening out.

Supplies you will need are: Tower Brand Guimp is the yarn from the pattern, #3 and #4 crochet hooks, & slide fastener.

Click on our Free Pattern Downloads page to download the pattern.

Happy crocheting!

Our New Needle Conversion Chart

Alison worked her butt off tracking down all of the different sizes of needles (knitting & crochet) over the last few months. She put all of this information together to make life a little easier when we are posting patterns and trying to figure out the modern needle/hook equivalents.

This chart (in pdf format) can be downloaded by clicking this link, or by visiting the Vintage Needle Sizing Charts page.

As we were going over the list, we realized that there is no info listed from the 1940s. That means Alison has a lot more digging to do.

Free Monthly Pattern for November (hand sewing)

This month's pattern features a great idea for fancifying any outfit.  From the late 1920s or early 1930s, this guide sheet will help you make any holiday outfit glamourous. The flower "cascades" are made from stiff organdie and require some hand sewing, The chrysanthemums look pretty easy to make.

Click on the pattern link or check out the "Free Pattern Downloads" page to be taken to the free pattern compliments of eStitched.

Pinwheel Afghan - a finished object

The Pinwheel Afghan is complete. What started as a project to use up yarn from the granny square ponchos became a really bright, colorful and fun project.

Finished measurements: 38 x 64 inches.

The pattern called for a 1mm crochet hook and bunches of lighter weight yarns (28 colors to be exact). I don't have the patience to work with the tiny hooks, though I wish I did. For my afghan, I used an "H" hook and worsted weight yarns. We had a bunch of Loops & Threads Impeccable and Vanna's Choice acrylic yarns that needed to be used. I like the Impeccable yarn. It works up easily and once washed becomes pretty soft and snuggly. It wasn't splitty to work with, either.

When I started the afghan, I placed all of the yarns in a tote bag and would grab colors at random. That worked for a few "squares" but then I started getting a little crazy about which colors should be next to each other. I'm a little too tightly wound to let my hexagons create themselves.

The hexagons are easy to make and the pattern is easy to memorize. I made many motifs at my sons' baseball practices and games without having to look at the pattern. They were easy enough that I could carry on a conversation while working on the afghan.

Measurement of the each hexagon is
10 1/2 inches (measured across the middle).

The size of the afghan is smaller than the pattern, but I was running out of most of my yarns, so I stopped making the squares when I had enough motifs to lay out a lap blanket sized afghan. I steam blocked the hexagons to the same size on my ironing board. I placed pins at each of the corners, then fit the individual squares to the pinned shape and steamed away. The iron never touches the yarn. That would melt the yarn. I placed the iron about 1-2 inches from the yarn and pushed the steam button like nobody's business. I let the hexagons cool, removed them from the ironing board and moved on to the next hexagon.

Once the hexagons were pieced together we had to decide what type of edging to use. I had to have help on this because I hung up on having a rainbow edging and working in every color that I had used in the motifs. I knew the multi-colored edging would look awful, but I couldn't let it go. Eventually Alison & my crochet buddy talked me out of it. We ended up with the navy edging on the outside that really makes the afghan come to life. 

100% acrylic, worsted weight yarns:
Loops & Threads Impeccable and Vanna's Choice solids, along
with a few lost label yarns.

The pattern can be found in our Etsy store.

1930's Vintage Sizing Chart for Knitting and Crochet

Alison found a sizing chart from the late 1930's. We don't usually see these, so we had to post this one. Garment sizing has changed dramatically in the past 80 years, so having a point of reference for vintage pattern sizes makes life a little easier when working with vintage patterns. 

The drawings for the Simple Crochet Stitches were also pretty cool. These show up in patterns quite often, but normally they've seen some wear and tear. The drawings on this page were great. It is so amazing that the drawings from way back when were as clear and detailed as today's photographs. The drawings often looked like artwork they were so precise and spot on.

Follow this link to download the chart in .pdf format.

1939 booklet.